– ESCAPE THE CROWDS –
AN INDEPENDENT TRAVEL GUIDE
Medewi
From Bali's longest lefthand break and breezy yoga shalas, to a pretty twin waterfall and a sacred tree, there is plenty to see and do around (and love about) Medewi.
Medewi
Airport
BOOK A HOTEL IN MEDEWI
Booking.com calls Medewi 'Pulukan'
Most guidebooks write Medewi off in just a few lines. "Medewi is not noted for its beach but its long left-hand wave. There is little else here," they say. But here's the thing: they're wrong. Medewi – and her increasingly popular neighbour, Yeh Sumbul – are brilliant destinations for surfers and travellers wanting to escape the crowds.
We've seen it over and again: Medewi has a way of creeping into your soul and so many travellers who stay more than three nights in this village find it very, very hard to leave. Surfers might say it's because of the point break, Bali's longest left-hand wave. Those who appreciate quiet places might stay for the vast stretches of wild beaches, while others might stay for the beachfront massages which, at under US$8 for a 60-minute session, will leave you basking in bliss for hours after. Or perhaps it's for the genuine hospitality at the many homestays here, and the Bali kopi, which seems to taste even more delicious when drunk at one of the warungs along the beachfront in the early morning.
​
When getting to know the Medewi area it's easiest to divide it into five sections: the surf point, the paddies, Yeh Sumbul, Pulukan and Pekutatan.
​
The surf point
​
For surfers the point is the biggest drawcard, where rides of more than 300m are possible on Bali's longest lefthand break. It's a great place to hang out and watch the ocean action – from surfers to the fishing boats that make their dramatic entry to the sea here each day – and there is a range of beachfront restaurants and warungs here.
​
The beach at the point
The beach at the surf point and along the curve into the bay is extremely rocky. From the paddle-out point stretching east towards the right-hander and Pulukan, the beach is sandy and flanked by a palm grove and paddies. The surf point is a popular spot for fishermen and often at low tide people gather shellfish from between the rocks.
Beachfront hotels and restaurants at the point
The closest you can get to the beach without getting your feet sandy is Warung Kayu, one of our favourite places to come for an early morning coffee or sunset Bintang. Bombora is a luxury surf hotel that's right at the point (their restaurant has excellent views of the surf); Homestay Gede is also right on the beach; it has a popular restaurant, as well as very simple rooms. Find more places to eat here, and a wider selection of where to stay in Medewi, here.
The paddies
​
This section of Medewi is on the inland side of the busy Denpasar-Gilimanuk road. There are many homestays up this road (and Dewi and Rasta Cafe, our favourite Medewi eatery), and it's well worth exploring the paddies around this area.
​​
​
Yeh Sumbul
​
If you stand at the surf point and look across the bay, you'll be looking onto Yeh Sumbul. In recent years many small hotels and homestays have opened here but still, it's a quiet area that's surrounded by paddies. There is surf along here – a sandy beach break that is quite forgiving for beginners. Out here you'll also find Wakey Wakey, a Canggu-style coffee bar that serves delicious snacks and excellent coffees, at very reasonable prices.
​
The beach at Yeh Sumbul
The beach at Yeh Sumbul is sandy, but usually littered with rocks that have washed across from the rocky Medewi side of the bay. It feels quite moody and dry here – a grey-sand beach that's exposed to wind, and with a few clusters of leggy pandan trees giving shade to cattle along a coastline that was once dominated by paddies, and now has some villas and small hotels creeping in. From Yeh Sumbul the beach stretches 20km west – in varying shades of grey, interrupted occasionally by small rivers and always flanked by farmlands – all the way to the big river mouth at Perancak.
Beachfront hotels and restaurants at Yeh Sumbul
The Holy Tree is a popular daytime cafe that sits on the edge of Yeh Sumbul beach. Also overlooking this beach are Wide Sands Beach Retreat and, the farthest along Yeh Sumbul, Bali Tiger Hideaway – both are very affordable accommodation options. Find more places to eat here, and a wider selection of where to stay in Medewi, here​.
Pulukan
The village just east of Medewi is Pulukan, and here along the main road you'll find a pharmacy, some convenience stores, Warung Bagus (which serves hearty meals at very affordable prices), as well as roadside fruit and vegetable sellers. Medewi's "right-ender" right-hand break can be reached from here – just as you exit the village you'll see the signs on the left, along the paddies.
​
The beach at Pulukan
Pulukan's beach is sandy, and feels very wild. It's lined by a deep strip of rice paddies – beautiful to see from the main Denpasar-Gilimanuk road. There is one relatively deep river at the eastern end of Pulukan beach; during the dry season you can walk across it, which means that you can walk east along the beach from the surf point Medewi to Puri Dajuma Eco Resort in Pekutatan, a distance of 2km. There are no beachfront hotels or restaurants along here.
​
​
​
Pekutatan
One village east of Pulukan is Pekutatan – "far" by Balinese standards, but only a seven-minute drive from the surf point at Medewi. There is a 24-hour convenience store (Wira Bhakti) in Pekutatan, an excellent fruit and vegetable market (which is open from 2am until 6.30am) and a good little night food market (which opens around 5pm) – all are along the main road. Pekutatan is where to come in you need an ATM (there are two along the main road) and it's in this village that you'll find the local clinic, "puskesmas".
The beach at Pekutatan
Pekutatan's beach is quite different from the others mentioned above, because around here there are a few small bays that are hugged by tall old trees. Low tide reveals rock pools and rock shelves that jut out into the ocean, forming what seem to be safe spots for swimming – but always be aware along here; the currents can be vicious. This beach is popular with kite-flyers during the windy season (around July and August).
Beachfront hotels and restaurants in Pekutatan
​
Puri Dajuma is a wonderful hotel on the beach in Pekutatan – it's a fantastic base for families who're wanting to have a beach holiday in this part of Bali. It's adjacent to a protected bay, where conditions are usually good for bodyboarding and, sometimes, SUPing (the hotel has bodyboards and SUPs). The hotel's restaurant overlooks the beach. A little further east, The Asri, The Writers' Treehouse and Hidden Well are all less than a 200m walk through coconut trees from the beach. Find more places to eat here, and a wider selection of where to stay in Medewi, here.
Medewi: local advice
Medewi
Airport
Airport to Medewi: 90km
Travel by car: about 3,5 hours
Cost: Rp600,000 with a driver
​
Medewi
Airport
Airport to Medewi: 90km
Travel by car: about 3,5 hours
Cost: Rp600,000 with a driver
​
Know this...​
​
...if you drive here yourself
​
The road from east Bali out here is not great: it is often busy with overloaded trucks and risk-taking buses, and we do not recommend driving out here at night if you're not familiar with driving in Indonesia. If your flight lands in Bali after midday, we suggest you chill out and spend one night closer to the airport before leaving for West Bali the next morning. If you choose to drive straight through to Medewi, expect to arrive about 4,5 hours after your plane lands. If you're looking for a driver, please head to the "how to get here" page.
​
...if you surf
​
Medewi has the longest lefthand break in Bali, but there's a right-hander here too. To get to the right-hander, walk south along the beach, just over the first river. It's really rocky at Medewi so take along your reef-boots, or hire a pair once you get there. Ask one of the local surfers where the paddle-out channel is – this will save you (and your board) from navigating the rocks. The "things to do in Medewi" button will take you to the surfing page, where you'll find more details..
​
...if you need to get laundry done
​
There is a small laundry on the road to the beach. Drop your clothes off here in the morning and they'll usually be ready early evening.
​
...if you're a light sleeper
​
There are many mosques in the Medewi area, and they all sound the call to prayer five times a day. If you're a light sleeper and a late riser, you'd probably appreciate having a set of ear plugs on hand, as most of Medewi's accommodation is within earshot of a mosque.
​
Where to eat in Medewi
One of the things we love about travelling is finding "local" eateries and cafes that travellers often don't eat at. That said, we also appreciate insight from people who know the areas, and so we've listed here some of our favourite restaurants and warungs around Medewi (all locations are shown on the map on this page). If you come across anywhere you think we should include here, please drop us an email – our address is in the footer of this page..
​
​
Warung Kayu
– Medewi: the point –
​
At the very tip of the point at Medewi there is a small wooden warung – welcome to Warung Kayu. Although it's now situated in a lovely wooden hut, Made and Wayan have been selling drinks and snacks here for years. In fact, it was Made's mother who sold snacks to some of the very first surfers in this area.
​
​
Homestay Gede
– Medewi: the point –
​
Homestay Gede is a simple restaurant so close to the beach at Medewi point that on big-swell days the front tables will be wet from the spray. Come here for everything from cheese jaffles to coffee, Bintangs and a banana, cheese and ice-cream pancake... and know that the ikan bakar (grilled fish) is superb. Homestay Gede has simple and exceptionally reasonably priced rooms too – you can usually walk in and book.
On Instagram: @gedeshomestaymedewi
​
​
Bombora
– Medewi: the point –
​
Bombora is the hotel that's literally on the surf point in Medewi, and views of the surf action are incredible. There is a long "bar" that faces the point – the perfect place for a coffee or beer while you're watching the surf. The restaurant is beside the pool (which is for hotel guests only) and overlooks the bay. This hotel is Australian-owned and sporting events are sometimes shown here.
On Instagram: @bomboramedewibali
​
​
Umadewi
– Medewi: the point –
​
Umadewi hotel has been at the point for many, many years. It went through a major refurbishment just before the pandemic and is now looking fresh and modern – and the restaurant now makes the most of the sea view. There's a long bar/dining space that makes for a brilliant surf-watching spot. The food and drinks here are good (tastier than that served by the neighbours, some would say).
​
​
Mai Malu
– Medewi: the point –
​
As you turn off the main road onto the road that leads to the beach, the first eatery on your left is Mai Malu. They have an extensive menu here that includes Western and Indonesian specialities. The fish cooked in coconut sauce is delicious, as are the rissoles.
On Instagram: @maimalu.medewi
​
​
Dewi and Rasta Cafe
– Medewi: the paddies –
* Buy your copy of Dewi's recipe book at the cafe, or here on Amazon*
​
Dewi's food is legendary and if you hang out in Medewi for a few days you're likely to see the same faces returning again and again to enjoy Dewi's delicious home-cooked Indonesian meals. We love the pumpkin curry and the fish rendang – and for a dessert, nothing is sweeter than Dewi's dadar gulung. Everything is made fresh and so meals do take time to prepare. Open daily 9am to 10pm.
On Instagram: @rastacafemedewi
​
​
Wakey Wakey
– Yeh Sumbul –
​
This awesome little spot serves not only the best coffee in the west, but delicious homemade snacks – like banana bread, lemony treats and homemade Snickers (ah-mazing!) – and smoothies too. And if you're looking for wax, a leash or a new bikini, pop next-door to the Get Wet Surfwear store. Wakey Wakey is on the road down to the beach in Yeh Sumbul; it's open Mondays to Wednesdays from 9am to 4pm, and Thursdays to Sundays from 8am to 5pm.
On Instagram: @wakeywakey.coffee
​
​
The Holy Tree
– Yeh Sumbul –
​
This quirky Canggu-style cafe is right on the beach in Yeh Sumbul and the view is as good as the value for money (that's their breakfast stack in the photo above). There is a coffee machine here – a rarity in this part of Bali – and the menu includes everything from smoothie bowls and salads to vegan fare and meaty meals. The Holy Tree is is usually open 7am to 9pm.
On Instagram: @the_holytree​
​
​
Nal's Kitchen
– Yeh Sumbul –
​
Nal's has become a popular go-to for many travellers, particularly those staying in Yeh Sumbul – and for good reason: the food is excellent, there is a variety of Indonesian and Western options on the menu and prices are very, very reasonable. It's really nicely designed, with quirky-cool touches here and there, and a variety of seating too. Nal's is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and delivers to Yeh Sumbul and Medewi.
On Instagram: @nals_kitchen
​
​
Warung Bagus
– Pulukan –
​
Warung Bagus has been a favourite with hungry surfers for years. It's a really basic restaurant, but meals here are hearty and value for money is excellent. It's on the main road in Pulukan – you come here for the food, not the ambiance.
On Instagram: @warungbagus_
​
​
Puri Dajuma
– Pekutatan –
​
If you're looking for somewhere to have a romantic dinner, or else to spend a day at the pool, then consider heading to Puri Dajuma, an eco-resort on the beach in Pekutatan. The menu here is vast and includes Indonesian, Balinese and Western specialities. Sometimes, when the hotel is quite full, Puri Dajuma organises buffet dinners with music by the village Jegog ensemble – a highlight of many travellers' trips to this area. Enjoy cocktails? Then be sure to ask for waitron Erik's arak specialities – in 2020 Erik was Bali's recognised as Bali's arak cocktail champion.
On Instagram: @puri_dajuma
​
​
Tides Restaurant
– Pekutatan –
​
Another good option for a special dinner is Tides Restaurant at Kelapa Retreat and Spa. As you'd expect from the name, Tides is a beachfront restaurant with stunning views of the ocean. The food here is superb, and an array of Indonesian and international dishes are on offer. There are vegan and vegetarian dishes on the menu, and the meat and fish dishes are halal.
On Instagram: @kelaparetreatspa_pekutatan
​