WEST BALI

The stretch of road leading westwards from Balian towards Pekutatan and Pulukan is marked primarily by empty beaches, seemingly endless coconut groves, rice paddies and rolling meadows where elegant Balinese cattle graze. On the inland side you’ll see the jungle-clad hills that make this western side of Bali so different from the rest of the island.

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​Although the coastline might at first glance seem to be covered by jungle, these are actually vast areas of soaring coconut palms, throwing their shade over banana groves. Rather than fruit the banana trees are grown primarily for their leaves (used for packaging and ‘disposable plates’). The coconut palms are still harvested for gula merah (palm sugar) and the local firewater known as arak. Of course, green drinking coconuts are also harvested. Any of the harvesters will be happy to sell you a coconut fresh from the tree; Rp5,000 is the going rate but your generosity will always be appreciated.

 

Low tide reveals rock pools and gnarled reefs that jut out into the ocean, and countless curving bays that are tempting swimming/surfing spots – but always be aware that currents can be vicious. This beach is popular with kite-flyers during the windy season. Around July and August you’ll sometimes see whole teams of young men hauling on kites that are frequently the size of trucks!

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Pekutatan

 

 

Despite Pekutatan’s size (it's home to almost 30,000 people) it retains a village atmosphere that’s delightfully restful and low-key – even in comparison with Medewi (a seven-minute drive to the west). This picturesque curve of wave-crashed volcanic sand – with five Javanese volcanoes hovering on the western horizon – is an undeniable highlight but Pekutatan’s rich, untainted sense of culture is sure to make you rethink everything you heard about ‘overcrowded, overdeveloped’ Bali. Tourists are still greeted as a novelty in Pekutatan… both by people, and sometimes, by dogs.

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Pekutatan is only a seven-minute drive from the surf point at Medewi. There is a 24-hour convenience store (Wira Bhakti) here, an excellent fruit and vegetable market (which is open from 2am until 6.30am) and a good little night food market (which opens around 5pm) – all are along the main road. Pekutatan is where to come in you need an ATM (there are two along the main road) and it's in this village that you'll find the local clinic, "puskesmas".

 

The beach at Pekutatan

 

Pekutatan's beach is quite different from the others mentioned above, because around here there are a few small bays that are hugged by tall old trees. Low tide reveals rock pools and rock shelves that jut out into the ocean, forming what seem to be safe spots for swimming – but always be aware along here; the currents can be vicious.  This beach is popular with kite-flyers during the windy season (around July and August).

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Beachfront hotels and restaurants in Pekutatan

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Puri Dajuma is a wonderful hotel on the beach in Pekutatan – it's a fantastic base for families who're wanting to have a beach holiday in this part of Bali. It's adjacent to a protected bay, where conditions are usually good for bodyboarding and, sometimes, SUPing (the hotel has bodyboards and SUPs). The hotel's restaurant overlooks the beach. A little further east, The Asri, The Writers' Treehouse and Hidden Well are all less than a 200m walk through coconut trees from the beach. Find more places to eat here, and a wider selection of where to stay in Medewi, here.

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Pulukan

 

​​If you're travelling from Balian, Pulukan is the village after Pekutatan and is  just east of Medewi. Here along the main road you’ll find a pharmacy, some convenience stores, Restu Bundo (which serves excellent masakan Padang meals at rock-bottom prices), as well as roadside fruit and vegetable sellers. You’ll find the closest ATM to Medewi at Cendakia convenience store (before the bridge that crosses into Pekutatan).

 

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The beach at Pulukan

 

Pulukan's beach is sandy, and feels very wild. It's lined by a deep strip of rice paddies – beautiful to see from the main Denpasar-Gilimanuk road. There is one relatively deep river at the eastern end of Pulukan beach; during the dry season you can walk across it, which means that you can walk east along the beach from the surf point Medewi to Puri Dajuma Eco Resort in Pekutatan, a distance of 2km. There are no beachfront hotels or restaurants along here.